A resplendent showcase of the majesty of oud

Expanding the palette

At the House of Amouage, the process of creativity is as important as its end result - it is only through a fearless refinement of the process that true artistry is achieved. Nowhere is this more evident than in the acclaimed Essences Collection, which, by virtue of its ingenious double-infusion process, marks a milestone in the development of perfume composition. Now, a new feat of innovation joins the collection in the form of the astronomically-inspired Oud Zuhal - a limited-edition composition, released only in the GCC region to coincide with the Ramadan period.

“With the first Essences,” says Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer at the esteemed Omani High Perfumery House, “we used sandalwood as the material for infusing the perfume concentrate. But during the development process, I experimented with other ingredients, including frankincense tears and cardamom pods.” The effects of these alternative ‘infusion substances’ were certainly thought-provoking, but there was one ingredient which led to especially promising results.

“When I tried an infusion with oud chips, the impact on the concentrates was remarkable. It gave them a depth and timelessness that was quite distinct from the attributes of the sandalwood - a sense of the past being heard within the perfume itself.” This notion of ageless authority would be the starting point for Oud Zuhal.

Looking up to the cosmos

Over its 42-year history, Amouage has built up a remarkable inventory of ingredients and bases, used by its in-house compounding experts to blend some of its mythical attars. As part of the development of the Essences, Salmon asked for these materials to be employed in the creation of an archetypal Amouage composition, with the intention of using it as a testing medium for the infusing effect of oud chips.

“The blend that was presented to me was created purely for research purposes. But there was something so magical about it that I was compelled not only to make it available to our clientele, but also to use it completely unchanged.” The initial stages of the process were not without their obstacles. Various technical barriers had to be overcome to ascertain the correct proportion of oud chips to perfume concentrate. All these trials required a considerable amount of patience, which in turn made Salmon explore the concepts of perseverance, endurance and of waiting for the right time to reap rewards.

In the ancient cosmology of the Middle Eastern region, the figure of Saturn has occupied an intriguing position. Linked to the cycle of harvests and the gifts offered by nature, Saturn was seen as a symbol of abundance and peace. However, in his personified form, he was also presented as a somewhat forbidding figure - keeping himself at one remove from humanity until the moment was right for him to bestow his riches. The Arabic word for Saturn is ‘zuhal’. As is the case with all other words in this rich language, it can be traced back to a root word. The root word of ‘zuhal’ stands for concepts of ‘remoteness’ and ‘solitude’. “A figure that is endlessly generous with his riches while being uncompromising was perfect for our next Essences release. And so, Oud Zuhal came to life.” 

Oud Zuhal - a gift from the stars

From the earliest moments of its opening, Oud Zuhal is focused firmly on its central material: the effect of the oud chips used in the infusion is unmistakable. All of the characteristics of the highest quality of agarwood come to the fore immediately - the animalic boldness, the mysterious woodiness, the dry, herbal inflections. However, after the initial assertion of oud, it also becomes apparent that the scent is far more than a presentation of a single ingredient.

Black Pepper and Pink Pepper bring a feeling of lift to the composition, lending it a marked verticality. The cooling, subtly citrusy personality of Cardamom acts as a striking contrast with the Oud, causing it to appear more clearly defined. As the scent progresses, the earthiness of Patchouli emphasises the Oud’s more authoritative features, while a sophisticated Amber note conveys a sense of timelessness. Finally, the use of Oud Assam complements the Indonesian Oud chips and achieves a rounded, full-bodied effect: the former is complex and multi-dimensional, whereas the latter is warmer and more balanced. The two grant Oud Zuhal lofty, grandiose proportions and elevate it to a suitably celestial level.

Structured as a monumental core surrounded by more delicate elements, Oud Zuhal is an emotionally charged expression of the power of sagacious fortitude.

The Essences - the power of subtlety

All perfume concentrates in the Essences collection are infused for a set period of time with a specific material. In the case of Oud Zuhal, the time period is 42 days, and the infusion ingredient is an Indonesian variety of oud called Merauke. The alcohol used to dilute the concentrates is infused for 6 months in hand-made oakwood barrels, produced in France by the artisanal firm Allary. The oud and the oakwood imbue Oud Zuhal with a unique patina - a layer of sophistication that envelops the scent with seamless suaveness. Though it may be difficult to put into words, the contribution of the double-infusion is undeniably present. It is the intangible made real - a fitting encapsulation of the power of perfumery itself.

Packaging & presentation

Oud Zuhal is presented in the bespoke Essences flacon, designed in collaboration with Jerome Faillant-Dumas of L.O.V.E. Paris. When seen from the front, its vertical ridges call to mind the dunes of Oman’s landscape; from above, they form the iconic, twelve-pointed Amouage emblem. At the base is the Essences medal, a gleaming, hand-made object displaying the perfume’s key information, as well as a graphical representation of a planetary system, in keeping with the scent’s focus on the story of Saturn. On the box, an hourglass image serves as a reminder of the importance of time to the entirety of the Essences collection. On the outer sleeve, Artist Louise Mertens’ representation of an oud chip - composed of contrasting, organic vertical lines - captures the weighty personality of the perfume itself.  

A note on the materials used in the double-infusion process

Oud - also known as agarwood or aloeswood - is one of the oldest and rarest of all perfumery materials, with records suggesting that some cultures were using it in various ceremonies as long ago as 1400 BC. It is formed when a particular fungus attacks certain varieties of the aquilaria tree. The resin which the tree produces in response to the attack is oud. The oud wood chips used in the infusion of the Oud Zuhal perfume concentrate are from an Indonesian variety known as Merauke. Warm and beautifully balanced, this variant of oud acts as an effective counterpoint to the Oud Assam used in the concentrate itself.

The oakwood barrels in which the alcohol is infused are made by the French firm Allary, using a technique named ‘mise en rose’, that requires such high levels of skill, it has been granted its own UNESCO listing. First, the wooden staves are carefully examined for defects. They are then bevelled and shaped to precise measurements, to ensure that the final barrel will be watertight. All the staves are then arranged to form the familiar barrel shape. The completed barrel undergoes an internal ‘toasting’ process - called bousinage - the duration of which determines the scent profile that the wood will lend its contents. The final touch is the engraving of the Amouage emblem onto the smoothly-planed surface of the wood.